Por Mónica Oblitas Zamora – Los Tiempos
Texto: Fernando Cervantes Crevoisier*
Producción: Mónica Oblitas
Que la ciudad de La Paz es una ciudad maravillosa, no cabe la menor duda. Que hasta hace unos años, muchos pensábamos en abandonarla debido a múltiples factores que parecían colapsarla, pareciendo Santa Cruz la opción más prometedora por su dinámica económica y de servicios, también es verdad. Sin embargo, en escaso tiempo, de pronto, cual ave Fénix, la ciudad del Illimani ha resurgido con inusitada fuerza, mejorando de a poco su sistema de transporte, principalmente, y evidenciando un movimiento comercial mucho más favorable. El tema gastronómico no escapa a esta realidad de ciudad cosmopolita, con ofertas culinarias cada vez más variadas y de mejor nivel. El paceño en general, poco acostumbrado a salir y comer afuera con regularidad, ahora disfruta y exige de la buena cocina como en cualquier gran capital del mundo. (El orden en que están diagramados los restaurantes no significa que sean mejores que los otros, todos están clasificados dentro de lo mejor de la culinaria paceña).
1 GUSTU
Que tengamos en la sede de gobierno, propuestas como la de Gustu, convertido este año gracias a la guía de San Pellegrino en uno de los mejores cincuenta restaurantes de América Latina, no puede ser casualidad. Es importante, eso sí, recalcar que si bien Gustu trabaja con productos bolivianos en su totalidad, no es un restaurante de cocina tradicional boliviana como tal. En todo caso es un restaurante de alta cocina de autor con ingredientes nacionales en un ciento por ciento, que ha puesto a Bolivia en el mapa gastronómico mundial. Es por ello que aventurarse en su carta significa una verdadera odisea de los sentidos. Tuve la oportunidad de estar presente en la elección del Latin America’s 50 Best restaurants 2014 realizado en Septiembre en Lima, y cuando Gustu, de La Paz, Bolivia, fue nombrado puesto número 32, muchos de nosotros nos preguntamos si de verdad era para tanto. Si lo es. Un paseo por su menú nos invita a deleitarnos con entradas como unas papas nativas cocidas en sal rosada, con flores comestibles (pétalos de manzanilla) y alcaparras de Sauco, que se pueden acompañar muy bien con una cerveza de quinua Bloomendall de edición limitada.
En los platos fuertes, mi recomendación se inclina fuertemente por el Surubí cocido en hojas de Japaina, con platanitos caramelizados con mantequilla café llamada también mantequilla de avellanas por su particular sabor , acompañados de maní triturado y crocante de plátano . Luego, un postre sofisticadamente simple que me fue sugerido, que consistía en un sorbete de chirimoya con caramelo de ají de tamarindo, láminas de oca y hojuelas de tomate árbol. Anótenlo. Vale la pena. Te obsequian además apenas llegas un snack de papas pintaboca laminadas y fritas con mayonesa de ají colorado y polvo de huacataya, y una canasta de pan artesanal de Cañahua y Afrechillo hechos con una masa madre de dos años de fermentación, que puedes untar alegremente con unas mantequillas de quinua o de la que tiene agregada infusión de coca. Mantequilla que además, es producida exclusivamente para Gustu por la gente de Flor de Leche. Como cierre a este festín del sabor, no viene nada mal alguna de las múltiples infusiones que te recomiendan los muy atentos meseros y meseras, acompañada de una tartaleta de chocolate blanco con ralladura de limón. Ahora bien, si de cócteles se trata, la creatividad de este lugar alcanza su cúspide. El cóctel de tumbo, con singani, licor de frambuesa y licor de tumbo caseros, clara de huevo, limón y azúcar, es francamente inolvidable. Sobre todo porque la copa está empapada de glucosa, azúcar, ácido cítrico y bicarbonato de sodio, que te causa una agradable efervescencia en cuanto toca tus labios. La decoración, una solitaria flor de lavanda color lila, se constituye en un delicado detalle que corona magistralmente el concepto. También, si la sed apremia, puedes pedir un zumo de pulpa y agua de coco con singani macerado, mix de núez moscada, limón y azúcar. Se llama Mercadito de Trinidad.
2 EL VAGÓN DEL SUR
Si de cocina nacional se trata, El Vagón del sur es un referente obligado en la ruta gastronómica paceña. No por nada, las visitas internacionales que llegan a nuestro país no dejan de visitarlo, como por ejemplo los periodistas de CNN en español cuando vinieron a cubrir los últimos comicios presidenciales, o toda la producción del programa de Telefe denominado “Gracias por venir, Gracias por estar”, junto a Elba, la ganadora de Masterchef Argentina, sólo por citar un par de recientes ejemplos. Es que este emprendimiento, que nació un 21 de Noviembre de 1990 en la calle Pedro Salazar del barrio de Sopocachi, gracias a Chachi y Nano Montesinos, y que en sus inicios contaba únicamente con siete mesas, ha visto crecer su prestigio , fama y clientela desde que ofrecía sus tradicionales picantes, su lechón criollo o su trucha del lago, gracias a la sazón de Chachi en la cocina y la atención y administración de Nano, dotes evidentemente heredadas por su hijo Jorge Montesinos quién desde Junio de 1999 lleva la batuta con el Vagón del Sur, actualmente en Calacoto, manteniendo el concepto de los tradicionales platos nacionales, pero también añadiendo al menú recetas internacionales que hacen que este restaurante sea uno de los más reconocidos en Bolivia, siendo nombrado y recomendado por medios tan importantes como el New York Times, entre otros. Personalmente, en cocina nacional yo recomiendo pedir un Picante surtido, compuesto por saice, picante de pollo , ají de lengua y charquekán, o un lechón criollo ( filete de pernil de cerdo cocinado con ají amarillo y acompañado de camotes ,plátanos y soltero ) con el cual los amantes de la carne de cerdo quedarán ampliamente complacidos. En cuanto a platos de cocina fusión, sin duda la vedette es la trucha a la Termidor, (filete de trucha del lago acompañada con langostinos, queso muzzarella y baño de salsa de Champagne, o vino espumante, para ser más precisos). Los postres tampoco se quedan atrás. Dignos de destacar, son su Creme Brulée y su Isla flotante. Dos buenos motivos para cerrar con broche de oro un almuerzo o una velada perfecta.
3 GREEN SALAD GARDEN
En la ciudad de La Paz, cuando hablamos de cocina saludable, sabrosa y de calidad, las opciones parecerían reducirse. El tema de comer sano y quedar además satisfecho, no siempre es sencillo en estos tiempos de Fast Food y comida chatarra. Quizás a ello se deba el éxito de Green Salad Garden, establecimiento ubicado en el coqueto barrio de San Miguel, donde es posible encontrar una Special Salad , consistente en una canasta de tortilla de trigo, una cama de variedad de lechugas, pollo, choclo, palmitos o palta, brócoli, quinua y morrón, aderezada con una interesante variedad de salsas a elección como la de sésamo y miel, albahaca y yogurt, apio, mostaza dulce o mayonesa y miel, entre otras, pudiendo también agregarle hierbas como quirquiña, cilantro, perejil, cebollín, albahaca o semillas como chía, sésamo, linaza o girasol.
(Hay una amplia variedad de ensaladas pero sinceramente esta es mi favorita, yo pido que le agreguen maní y croutones).También tienen sopas caseras, jugos naturales, sandwichs saludables y wraps, pero algo que tienes que probar sí o sí son sus hamburguesas de quinua, de soja, de trigo o de garbanzo servidas en pan blanco o integral además de su ya mítica torta de zanahorias. Un dato no menor, su propietario, Abel Jarmush, (Aby para los amigos ) siempre está al pie del cañón atendiéndote con una gran sonrisa y su restaurante suele ser visitado asiduamente por las chicas más lindas de la ciudad.
4 THE MELTING POT & ROCK
La zona de las 4 Corners, conformada por las calles Murillo, Cochabamba y Tarija, en el centro paceño, ha dejado de ser solo transitada por turistas para, a través de sus atractivos locales, empezar a hacerse conocida entre los ciudadanos de la Hoyada. De forma particular, destaca una propuesta de Fondeu, sandwichs , carnes y pescados a la piedra que vienen acompañadas de papas salteadas con cebolla y tocino, arroz, vegetales frescos salteados con hierbas, ensaladas frescas o los platillos llamados Spatzli ( pasta suiza artesanal con huevo ) o el Rosti, una especie de tortilla de papa con tocino, romero y cebolla salteada. Imperdible como entrada el pedirse un Cóctel de camarones con salsa de whisky, para luego proseguir con algún fondeu de queso supay picante ( hecho con aguardiente de locoto ) que viene con pan, papas y verduras de temporada, o un Mixed Rock con diversos sabores a la roca : llama, carne de cerdo, carne de res, camarón, basa, trucha y pollo. Una opción a los fondeu de queso son los de carnes y camarones que sumergidos en caldos o aceites y acompañados de buenos vinos pueden llegar a convertirse en una muy grata experiencia. Ah, también cuentan con un amplio buffet de salsas, y el lugar es sumamente acogedor. Por otro lado, verdaderos afrodisíacos son sus fondeu de chocolate clásico o el de Amarula, acompañados de fruta fresca y Marshmallow.
5 JARDÍN DE ASIA
Octubre 2013. Calacoto. La Paz, Bolivia. Tiempo y espacio que se amalgaman para dar forma a una propuesta que combina magistralmente cocina fusión, con influencia asiática y el uso de ingredientes andinos y amazónicos que tienen en Jorge Dávila (Master cuisine en Le Cordon Blue, Lima) y Alfredo Sakibaru (amplia experiencia en cocina japonesa trabajando en los principales sushi bar del Perú ) dos fieles exponentes de los más altos estándares culinarios. Sus técnicas de vanguardia pueden verse ampliamente reflejadas en platos como un Batayaki de mariscos, ( mariscos salteados en mantequilla con ajo flambeados con singani moscato , chalaquita amazónica y cangrejos de Tarija servidos sobre una carcasa de ostiones y escamas de paiche ) o una llama marinada y salteada al wok con espuma de habas y queso criollo con raíces encurtidas de rabanitos, perlas de copoazú y papel tropical de plátano y maracuyá con tierra de urucú y limón, verdadera obra maestra que evidencia la experiencia del Chef Dávila en cocina molecular. A la hora de los postres, el bizcocho Oreo con crema de Gari, gelatina de Grandmanier y helado de pistacho, no tiene pierde.
Es importante mencionar que la decoración, concepto y ambientación del lugar están hechos con muy buen gusto. Jardín de Asia, una franquicia que nació en Santa Cruz de la Sierra y que muy pronto también estará en el exterior, ha sabido satisfacer en muy poco tiempo al exigente gusto local.
Fernando Cervantes*
“EL BOOM RECIÉN ESTÁ EMPEZANDO”
Es el único crítico gastronómico que vive en Bolivia y que tiene la autoridad para juzgar qué tan bueno es un restaurante, por ello le pedimos su opinión acerca de los cinco mejores lugares para comer en La Paz, y también que nos explicara por qué el boom de una singular gastronomía se ha instalado en La Paz. Fernando Cervantes es director de la revista especializada Conexión Gourmet, enfocada sobre todo en los chefs y su cocina, que se distribuye gratuitamente en las principales ciudades del país.
OH!: ¿Qué es ser un crítico gastronómico?
Yo no me considero un crítico porque en todo caso lo que hace un crítico es emitir juicios de valor con lo cual puedes quedarte atrapado en la subjetividad ya que si bien hay parámetros en común por los cuales puedes llegar a juzgar diferentes tipos de cocina, también es cierto que el gusto, la idiosincrasia, la percepción de los sabores de cada persona es distinta, en ese sentido me considero un comentarista gastronómico el cual desde la crónica, reflejo mis experiencias culinarias.
OH!: Tenemos diferentes comidas en los distintos departamentos del país, ¿Qué destaca de cada una?
En el occidente se abusa de los carbohidratos y de las grasas, y del ají como condimento porque en ciertas ocasiones se pierde la esencia del sabor porque el ají tapa el resto de los sabores, de pronto hay platos que son simplemente ají con algo. Y existen platos que serían difíciles de adaptar al gusto del extranjero. En ese sentido la cocina del oriente tiene más proyección para internacionalizarse en el sentido de que equilibra mejor los sabores, obviamente volvemos a la subjetividad. Rescato de la cocina del occidente las sopas, y aunque toda Bolivia tiene sus atractivos gastronómicos, me he quedado sorprendido con la cantidad de chefs que están creando platillos con productos amazónicos.
OH!: ¿Qué opina del boom gastronómico en Bolivia comparado con países como Perú por ejemplo?
Está recién empezando. Estuve hace poco en el festival culinario Mistura, y quedé sorprendido por cómo los peruanos llevan la marca Perú, lo orgullosos que están de su cocina, y principalmente y algo que recalco, es lo convencidos que están de que su cocina es la mejor del mundo y cómo la marketean. Creo que el trabajo del cocinero peruano es un 30% estudio, pasión y trabajo y un 70% de marketing. Primero se han convencido ellos mismos de que su cocina es maravillosa y luego nos han convencido a todos de que son el norte a seguir. Creo que pasa principalmente acá en Bolivia el creernos la historia primero nosotros, creer que la cocina boliviana tiene el potencial de en un mediano plazo llegar a ser tan conocida como la peruana o la mexicana, principalmente porque el producto que hay acá es espectacular.
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Quiero darte las gracias de nuevo por haber pensado en mi para este premio. Los invito a visitar el blog de Marina, que estoy segura les gustara y sera de mucha utilidad para conservarse saludables.
https://consejonutricion.wordpress.com
Sabores de Bolivia 
… liked this!
uuuh tiene una pinta deliciosa y golosa! en mi hogar gusta mucho el dulce de leche, seguro que les encanta, gracias!
Muchas gracias por los comentarios y las visitas.
… liked this!
Maravilloso! Como siempre, un agrado tu blog. Un fuerte abrazo de argentina!
Muy buen post! Me encanta siempre lo que subes. Un abrazo grande desde mi buenos aires querido!
Maravilloso! Me ha encantado tu post y por cierto, buen blog. Un abrazo fuerte desde argentina!
Cristina Gracias x responderle a Facundo la intención es apreciable ... En realidad en Aiquile se prepara la "leche de coco" es de origen vegetal, del coco, un tipo de palma que producen en Chuquisaca, en Tarabuco... Decía la leche de coco se prepara moliendo el coco en batan de piedra, hasta obtener una masa pastos y de allí obtener su "leche" (jugo del coco) y luego se hace hervir con canela y clavo de olor en agua. Se sirve caliente con pastel de queso. No contiene nada de origen animal y tampoco alcohol.
Si puedes darte una escapada por los valles tanto del sur de Cochabamba, norte de Chuquisaca y norte de Potosí encontraras exquisiteces muy peculiares y propias a ser descubiertas y degustadas que también aportan al patrimonio de la cocina boliviana.
Muchas gracias por tan valioso blog y aporte al mundo Cristina.
PD: Sabes donde se puede encontrar regaliz en Cochabamba?
Que hermoso blog!!! Gracias por todo la compilación y tu tiempo.🤗🤗🤗🤗
Se ve increible. Lo voy a hacer
Gracias
Hola Cristina un gusto saludarte despues de mucho tiempo, yo sigo en la Cronica Gastronomica y ya van como siete mis libros sobre este tema apasionante
Hola! Yo he sido siempre una ratona, me chifla el queso! Pero desde que tengo fibromialgia y como consecuencia síndrome de colon irritable he dejado todos los lácteos y debo decir que, mi cuerpo lo nota!
Ahora tomo frutos secos y levadura nutricional para hacer "quesos veganos", de hecho en mi blog hablo de ella, para que al menos mis compañeros de enfermedad sepan que el queso y los lácteos en general, inflaman y que es un mito que sin ellos, nuestro organismo carezca de calcio.
Buen artículo, a ver si el mundo va tomando conciencia y come más sano.
Un saludo.
Que rico, me recuerda a las vendedoras de dulces en las calles en La Paz, todos hechos a mano como los quesitos,tablillas,pitu, los extranjeros de la Argentina como los Sugus,Marilu,etc.
Mi adorado papi me traía de Potosí y Sucre los dulces hechos en los conventos.
Gracias por la receta.
El choripán en Chile es otra cosa, que bueno aprender de otros países, gracias por compartir.
Excelente tip me funciono excelente mil gracias. Saludos.